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or on the inhibition of serine proteases, such as leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G. Exemplary are: the peptide extract of leguminous plant (Pisum sativum) seeds, marketed by LSN under the trademark PARELASTYL?; heparinoids; and pseudodipeptides, such as {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethylphenyl)amino]-3-methylbutyrylamino}acetic acid. Among the active agents for stimulating fillagrin and keratins, exemplary are the extract of lupin marketed by Silab under the trademark STRUCTURINE?; the extract of Fagus sylvatica beech buds marketed by Gattefosse under the trademark GATULINE?; and the extract of the zooplankton Salina marketed by Seporga under the trademark GP4G?.Preferably, the agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing degradation thereof are selected from among extracts of Centella asiatica, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, peptides extracted from plants, such as the soybean hydrolysate marketed by Coletica under the trademark PHYTOKINE?, or the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae marketed by LSN under the trademark CYTOVITIN?; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by Alban M¨1ller under the trademark HSP3?; retinoids and derivatives; extracts of rosemary; the peptide extract of leguminous plant (Pisum sativum) seeds marketed by LSN under the trademark PARELASTYL?; {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethylphenyl)amino]-3-methylbutyrylamino}acetic acid; extract of lupin; and mixtures thereof.

Muscle Relaxant or Dermo-Decontracting Agent:

The muscle relaxants or dermo-decontracting agents that can be incorporated into the compositions according to the invention comprise alverine and salts thereof, manganese gluconate, diazepam, the hexapeptide Argireline R marketed by Lipotec, carbonylated secondary and tertiary amines, adenosine, and also sapogenins and the natural extracts, in particular of wild yam, comprising them, and also the extracts of Boswellia serrata.

The present invention also features tinted compositions comprising the extracts of non-photosynthetic and non-fruiting filamentous bacterium cultivated in a medium comprising at least one non-sulfurous mineral and/or thermal water. In particular, it is a beige makeup composition for concealing dark circles.

Exemplary dyestuffs, include monochromatic pigments, nacres, reflective pigments that do or do not emit a color, interference pigments, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, |?-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Exemplary are the mineral pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, and also iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Exemplary organic pigments include carbon black, D&C type pigments and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.

The nacreous pigments may be selected from among white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium-mica with iron oxides, titanium-mica with, in particular, ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium-mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The pigments may have undergone a surface treatment.

 


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According to one particular embodiment of the invention, said agent included in the compositions of the invention is associated with at least one other agent that improves the appearance of the dark circles.

This agent is intended to reinforce the dark circle concealing effect obtained by the first agent and/or give the composition applied to the eye contour an optical effect that conceals dark circles and/or bags, replaced over time by the natural dark circle concealing effect provided by the first agent. The presence of the first agent in the composition also makes it possible to reduce the concentrations of the second agent that are normally effective for obtaining the desired effect on the dark circles, so as to promote the natural appearance of the makeup.

In particular, this agent is selected from:

an agent that acts on the lymphatic system;

a makeup agent useful for concealing the dark circles, otherwise known as a dark circle concealant;

and mixtures thereof.

Exemplary agents that act on the lymphatic system are the peptide inhibitors of the enzyme ACE (EC3.4.15.1) that convert angiotensin I to angiotensin II, such as the Val-Trp dipeptide. These ACE enzyme inhibitors have the effect of increasing the level of bradykinin and of thus promoting lymphatic drainage, while reducing water-retention problems.

Exemplary agents for concealing dark circles are ?°soft-focus?± fillers, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners and mixtures thereof.

The term ?°soft-focus filler?± means a filler which also gives transparency to the skin tone and a blurred effect. Preferably, the soft-focus fillers have an average particle size less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles may be of any shape and in particular may be spherical or non-spherical. More preferably, these fillers are non-spherical.

The soft-focus fillers may be selected from among silica and silicate powders, especially alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type powders, talc, silica/TiO2 or silica/zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene/acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, exemplary is talc having a number-average size less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc having a number-average size of 1.8 microns and especially that marketed under the trademark TALC P3? by Nippon Talc, nylon-12 powder, especially that marketed under the trademark ORGASOL 2002 Extra D Nat Cos? by Atochem, silica particles surface-treated with a 1 to 2% mineral wax (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those marketed under the trademark SUNSPHERE for example having the reference H-53 by Asahi Glass, and silica microbeads such as those marketed under the trademark SB-700? or SB-150? by Miyoshi, this list not being limiting.

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The soft-focus filler may be present in the soft-focus cosmetic compositions in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight and especially ranging from 1% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 5 to 10%, for example around 8%.

The term ?°fluorescent agent?± means a substance which, under the effect of ultraviolet rays and/or visible light, re-emits into the visible range the portion of light that it has absorbed in the same color that it reflects naturally. The naturally reflected color is thus reinforced by the re-emitted color and appears extremely bright.

Exemplary are colored resins of polyamide and/or of formaldehyde/benzoguanamine and/or of melamine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide, colored aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensates and/or metallized polyester flakes and/or mixtures thereof. These fluorescent pigments may also be in the form of aqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments.

Also exemplary are pink-colored fluorescent aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensates having an average particle size of 3-4 microns, marketed under the trademark FIESTA ASTRAL PINK FEX-1 and the blue-colored fluorescent aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensates having an average particle size of 3-4.5 microns marketed under the trademark FIESTA COMET BLUE FTX-60 by Swada or else the benzoguanamine/formaldehyde resins coated with formaldehyde/urea resin and colored yellow, marketed under the trademark FB-205 YELLOW and the benzoguanamine/formaldehyde resins coated with formaldehyde/urea resin and colored red, marketed under the trademark FB-400 ORANGE RED by UK Seung Chemical, the orange-colored polyamide resins marketed under the trademark FLARE 911 ORANGE 4 by Sterling Industrial Colors.

The fluorescent substances are preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the organic fluorescent substances are white, they are also known as optical brighteners.

The optical brightener has the effect of intensifying the radiance and brightening the tones of the cosmetic compositions comprising them upon application to the skin.

Among the optical brighteners, exemplary are stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazine stilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarins and aminocoumarins, oxazole derivatives, benzooxazole, imidazole, triazole, pyrazoline, pyrene derivatives and porphyrin derivatives and/or mixtures thereof.

Such compounds are, for example, available under the trademarks TINOPAL SOP? and UVITEX OB? from Ciba Geigy.

The preferred optical brighteners are sodium 4,4??-bis[(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2??-disulfonate, 2,5-thiophendiylbis(5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole), disodium distyryl-4,4??-biphenyl sulfonate and/or mixtures thereof.

Examples of such compounds are described previously.

 

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The present invention also features a cosmetic regime or regimen to improve the appearance of the eye contour, in which a composition such as defined above is topically applied to the eye contour and in particular to the suborbital zone.

This method is especially useful for reducing bags and/or dark circles around the eyes, in particular dark circles.

The compositions of the invention will preferably be topically applied to dark circles.

The compositions according to the invention may be applied daily as a day care product/makeup or as a night care product.

In order to further illustrate the present invention and the advantages thereof, the following specific examples are given, it being understood that same are intended only as illustrative and in nowise limitative. In said examples to follow, all parts and percentages are given by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

Preparation of the Culture Medium:

Composition:

Yeast extract 2 to 3 g
Soybean papain peptone 2 to 3 g
Glucose 2 to 3 g
Heller microelements 2 ml
CaCl2?2H2O 66.21 mg
Thermal water from La Roche Posay 13-14 ml
This stock solution will be diluted with osmosed water in a ratio of 1/75 before sterilization.

The pH of the medium is adjusted to 5.00 by adding a molar solution of H3PO4. The medium is sterilized by autoclaving at 121?? C. for 30 minutes. After cooling to ambient temperature, the pH is readjusted to 7.20 by adding a molar solution of KOH.

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Culturing:

After the medium has been inoculated at 1% with the Vitreoscilla filiformis strain, the culture is shaken on an orbital shaker at 100 rpm and at 26?? C. After growth for 48 hours, the culture is centrifuged at 8,000 g for 15 minutes. The pellets are recovered and then autoclaved at 121?? C. for 30 minutes. This biomass can be used for evaluation tests.

Clinical Data:

A first clinical study (study 1), double blind, evaluated intraindividually the comparative effect of a cream containing 5% of extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis (V. f.) cultured conventionally (hereinafter referred to as ?°conventional extract?±) on the red blotches occurring in individuals suffering from slight to moderate atopic dermatitis (symmetrical lesions versus placebo).

The ?°conventional?± extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis is prepared according to the following modes:

Preparation of the Culture Medium:

Composition:

Yeast extract 2 g
Soybean papain peptone 2 g
Glucose 2 g
Heller microelements 2 ml
CaCl2?2H2O 66.21 mg
Water qs 1 l
The pH of the medium is then adjusted to 5.00 by adding a molar solution of H3PO4. The medium is sterilized by autoclaving at 121?? C. for 30 minutes. After cooling to ambient temperature, the pH is readjusted to 7.20 by adding a molar solution of KOH.

Culturing:

In the laboratory: after the medium has been inoculated at 1% with the Vitreoscilla filiformis strain, the culture is shaken on an orbital shaker at 100 rpm and at 26?? C. After growth for 48 hours, the culture is centrifuged at 8,000 g for 15 minutes. The pellets are recovered and then autoclaved at 121?? C. for 30 minutes. This biomass can be used for evaluation tests.

In Fermenter:

In a fermenter preferably equipped with a draft tube in order to limit the shear force, the Vitreoscilla filiformis strain is inoculated at a minimum of 1% volume. The pH is kept stable at 7 UpH throughout the culturing, the T?? is adjusted from 26 and 28?? C. and the oxygenation is maintained at 10% PO2 throughout the culturing, by the action either of the shaking speed or by adjustment of the air flow rate. This type of culturing can be carried out in batch, fed-batch or in continuous mode. The latter technique, which guarantees a reproducible biomass through controlling the growth rate (|ì), will be preferred. The biomass harvested continuously by centrifugation at 10,000 g is frozen at ?20?? C. When the freezing tank is full, it is thawed at 4?? C. and then packaged in packages that can be handled by an operator. These packages containing the biomass are then sterilized in order to be stabilized. This sterilization operation then is a production batch.

In the context of this study, the composition containing the ?°conventional extract?± bacterial extract applied twice a day was very well tolerated.

The extract is formulated in composition 1A, which is a formula containing 5% of the conventional extract in an oil-in-water/Arlacel/Myrj emulsion containing 5% parleam and 15% volatile silicone. The effect of this composition 1A is compared with that of a placebo: composition 2A which corresponds to the excipient: oil-in-water/Arlacel/Myrj emulsion containing 5% parleam and 15% volatile silicone.

This composition 1A containing the ?°conventional extract?± of Vitreoscilla filiformis at 5% did not have a significant effect on the vascular component of disorders of the skin of the individuals tested.

On the other hand, in a second study (study 2 carried out under the same conditions as the previous one and by the same team of experimenters), the composition containing 5% of Vitreoscilla filiformis extract cultured in a medium enriched with thermal water from La Roche Posay (according to Example 1) showed a specific effectiveness on the vascular component of the affection.

The extract is formulated in composition 1B, which is a formula containing 5% of bacterial extract according to the invention (obtained according to Example 1) in an oil-in-demineralized water Arlacel/Myrj emulsion containing 5% parleam, 15% cyclopentasiloxane, 3% glycerol and 2% petroleum jelly. The effect of this composition 1B is compared with that of a placebo: composition 2B which corresponds to an oil-in-water from La Roche Posay Arlacel/Myrj emulsion containing 5% parleam, 15% cyclopentasiloxane, 3% glycerol and 2% petroleum jelly.

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